Aging Undereye Skin Needs Its Own Skincare Plan. Here's Why—And Exactly How To Fix Dark Circles And Puffiness. (2025)

When it comes to aging, my biggest skincare concern is, hands down, my eyes. Sure, I'll use a good retinol cream to help smooth out my forehead wrinkles, but it's under-eye skincare that really has my attention. As a contact lens-wearer prone to dryness, I feel like I'm constantly rubbing and irritating that delicate skin. And my life as a working mom of four means I've often burning the midnight oil to get it all done (and the resulting dark circles aren't doing my naturally deep-set eyes any favors).

So, my hunt for the best multitasking eye products—the ones that hydrate my dry, itchy eyelids, smooth wrinkles, and brighten discoloration—is a never-ending quest. But over the years, I've learned a thing or two thanks to long text chains with my friends, conversations with dozens of dermatologists, and my personally experience trying c0untless eye creams and eye serums.

Some products work better than others, but I'm still searching for the one, that unicorn that can truly tackle all of my concerns. So, I polled more dermatologists and discovered that truly taking care of this area of your face requires a holistic plan—and I'm here to share it with you.

Meet Our Experts: Michele Green, MD, is a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist in NYC. Deanne Mraz, MD, FAAD, is a board-certified dermatologist in Connecticut. Blair Murphy-Rose, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist in New York. Thomas Griffin, MD, is the department chair of the Laser and Aesthetics Surgery Center at Dermatology Associates of Plymouth Meeting in Pennsylvania. Marisa Garshick, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist in New Jersey.

The perfect storm

Dermatologists have confirmed what my friends and I already know: the under-eye area is tricky to treat. Issues abound, and "the skin under and around the eyes is more delicate than the skin on the rest of the face," says Michele Green, MD, a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist in NYC. In fact, studies suggest the lower eyelid skin is one of the thinnest parts in the body at only about 0.5 millimeters (mm) thick. For context, the rest of your facial skin is about 1.5-2.0 mm thick and skin on the thickest area of the body—the heels—can be up to 4 mm thick.

Under-eye skin is also less elastic, which means it's not as capable of bouncing back from daily stressors, says Dr. Green. To make matters more complicated (I know), it has less of a natural moisture barrier, making it more susceptible to issues like dehydration, sensitivity, and even accelerated aging. Fat loss over the years can cause a hollow appearance revealing vascular structures (those tiny little veins) that can exacerbate the appearance of dark circles, adds Deanne Mraz, MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist in Connecticut. Of course, skin conditions like atopic dermatitis, acne, and sun spots from continued UV exposure can also cause hyperpigmentation.

Your ultimate under-eye routine

Great. So now what? Luckily, there are many non-invasive ways to protect and even rejuvenate the eyes for a more youthful, radiant appearance. Here's what dermatologists recommend:

1. Use an eye serum, cream, or mask: Use your ring finger to dot serums and creams underneath and around your eye (it's your weakest finger, so you're less likely to tug or irritate that delicate skin while applying products). Some cream and serums even have metal applicators that deliver a cooling effect to soothe and depuff, says Marisa Garshick, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City.
2. Keep your skincare cold: Especially if puffiness is a concern, keeping your products in the refrigerator can offer a cooling benefit that may help with puffiness, says Dr. Garshick. In addition, the co0l temperature helps shrink the blood vessels under the eyes, thus reducing the appearance of darkness and minimizing swelling. An ice roller, a cold compress, or even submerging your entire face in a bath of ice water can also help, she says.
3. Consider your lifestyle as a whole: Studies suggest sleep deprivation affects facial features and can cause issues like hanging eyelids, redder eyes, more swollen eyes, darker circles under the eyes, and more fine lines and wrinkles—possibly because of blood vessel dilation and fluid buildup. Bottom line: prioritize rest however you can. Dehydration, whether from lack of water intake or excess alcohol or sodium in your diet—can also cause sunken eyes.

Picking your potion

With so many over-the-counter solutions at your disposal, how do you know which one is right for you? To save you from trying costly product after costly product, the experts we spoke to help break it all down:

Think about what's keeping you up at night

The under-eye product you choose really just depends on what you're trying to address and the ingredients that can get the job done. Generally speaking, some of the best ingredients to improve and treat the under-eye skin include caffeine, retinol, hyaluronic acid, and vitamin C, says Dr. Green. For best results, reach for a product that's formulated to address any specific concerns you may have.

• For dark circles: To brighten dark circles, seek out antioxidants like vitamin C, says Dr. Green. "Vitamin C protects the skin from free radicals, reduces inflammation, brightens the skin, and aids in cellular repair," she explains. Researchers, who studied the effects of a 10% vitamin C product for 6 months, think this is due to the fact that vitamin C helps increase collagen in the skin. Niacinamide, another antioxidant, can also help, as its both calming and can improve discoloration.
• For crow's feet: Retinol, known for its skin-firming properties, is the gold standard here, says Dr. Green. This over-the-counter vitamin A derivative (there are prescription options, too) promotes cell turnover and increases collagen production, helping to decrease fine lines such as crow's feet and improve the appearance of dark circles, she explains. Also keep an eye out for alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), which increase the skin cell turnover rate and encourage the synthesis of new, healthy collagen that can help smooth out crow's feet and fine lines around the eyes, says Dr. Mraz. It's also worth noting that, according to studies, both topical and oral collagen supplements can help reduce the amount of wrinkles and the average wrinkle length and depth on the face.
• For puffiness: Research suggests caffeine is one of the best multitasking ingredients for under-eye skin health. It has antioxidant effects, protecting precious collagen to help plump-up wrinkles and protect against free radical damage. It may also help decrease periorbital hyperpigmentation, or darkness beneath the lower eyelids, by increasing blood circulation. It also stimulate lipolysis, a metabolic process that helps break down stored fats, to improve puffiness.
• For dehydration: To boost hydration, opt for ingredients that moisturize the skin like hyaluronic acid, ceramides, and peptides, says Dr. Mraz. Due to their ability to attract moisture, these ingredients will help plump and smooth out the skin, plus make it look brighter and more awake.

Hone in on the right formula

Masks (or patches), creams, and serums can all help improve the appearance of the skin under the eyes, but there are important distinctions between them that are worth knowing to help you make the best choice for you.

• Mask/patch: Masks and patches can be helpful for absorption and can be used when you need a deeper boost of nourishment, says Dr. Mraz.
• Cream: Eye creams are moisturizers that are typically much richer than serums and promote hydration and moisture retention, says Dr. Green, noting many of her patients choose to use an eye cream at night, since the formulation is much heavier than a serum.
• Serum: "Serums are where you can get laser focused based on your specific concerns in the eye area," says Dr. Mraz. "Serums contain a higher concentration of actives designed to penetrate to the deeper layers of the skin." Serums are also great for the morning routine, says Dr. Green. Its lightweight formula makes it easy to layer products on top—including eye cream for additional benefits, she says.

Doctor's orders

For many individuals, over-the-counter topicals—no matter how luxe!—aren't always enough to fully rejuvenate the eye area. Fortunately, there are a number of in-office treatments that you can seek out if you're looking to improve dark circles, wrinkles, crows feet, or any other under-eye issue:

Botox injections

"Botox is one of the most common procedures to reduce the appearance of dynamic wrinkles, such as crow's feet or fine lines around the eyes," says Dr. Green. "Crow's feet often result from repetitive muscle contractions from squinting or smiling, and Botox is a neuromodulator that 'freezes' nerve signals to target these contractions." When injected, Botox blocks signals to certain muscles, relaxing them and thereby smoothing fine lines around the eyes. These effects are temporary, typically lasting for three to four months.

Microneedling

Microneedling can be a beneficial way to help reduce under-eye bags, says Dr. Garshick. During this treatment, a dermatologist uses tiny needles to create micro-injuries in the skin that spur collagen production. This is important, because collagen is a protein that helps keep skin firm and elastic.

eMatrix

Another treatment option for reducing fine lines around the eyes, eMatrix is a resurfacing laser that relies on radiofrequency energy to heat the inner layers of the dermis and stimulate collagen production, says Dr. Green. "Collagen is a key skin protein involved in skin elasticity and firmness, and by increasing collagen levels, eMatrix smooths the skin and reduces the appearance of fine lines," she says. Typically, patients need three treatments spaced one month apart to fully enhance the appearance of mild to moderate fine lines and wrinkles around the eyes.

Fraxel

"The Fraxel Dual laser is equipped with a 1550nm wavelength setting to treat lines, wrinkles, acne scars, skin texture, and pore size, as well as a 1927nm wavelength setting to treat brown spots, freckles, and pigmentation from photodamage," says Dr. Green. "During treatment, fractionated laser energy penetrates deep into the skin to trigger the body's natural healing process and increase collagen production." Studies suggest this is most effective in treating the overall amount and depth of facial wrinkles—including those in the under-eye area. Similar to the eMatrix laser, a series of treatments, each spaced one month apart, is typically required for best results.

So, as you can see, there are plenty of proactive steps you can take to firm and refine the skin under your eyes—and many of them aren't expensive. After all, if the eyes are the windows to your soul, you want those trimmings looking their best.

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